What Makes a Shed Slab Worth Building On
Six things that decide whether a pad is still flat and dry when the shed is twenty years old.
Hardfill in Layers, Not in One Lift
Hardfill placed in one deep lift never compacts properly through its full depth, and the slab above it settles unevenly later. Compacted granular fill under a slab is capped at 600 mm and placed in layers not exceeding 150 mm, and we bring it up that way and compact each layer as it goes.
The Slab Is Set Out to the Building, Not the Fence
A shed pad is set out to the building plan, not to a boundary or a fence line. Kitset suppliers issue exact slab dimensions and bolt positions, and a pad that is out by 40 mm is a pad that gets broken up on erection day. We build to the document and check it against site levels first.
Damp Proof Membrane Under Anything Enclosed
Anything enclosed and used as living or working space needs a damp proof membrane under the slab, laid over a sand blinding with laps of at least 150 mm. Moisture moves up through concrete otherwise, and it will find whatever is stored or built on that floor.
Edges Thickened Where the Frame Lands
The load from a shed frame arrives at the slab edge through the bottom plate and the holding down bolts. We thicken the edge where the frame lands so that load has something under it, and place steel to suit.
Levels Set So Water Leaves the Doorway
A garage floor level set flush with the driveway outside it collects water at the door every time it rains hard. We set the finished floor above the external level and fall the apron away, which is a five minute decision at set out and impossible to fix afterwards.
We Say When a Pad Needs an Engineer
Large sheds, tall buildings, mezzanines and anything with portal frames need a specific engineering design for the pad. We say so, because the loads on those go into the edges and the footings rather than spread across the floor.