What Separates a Path That Lasts
Six things that decide whether a path is still level, dry and safe to walk on in fifteen years.
One Hundred Millimetres Where Seventy Five Is the Published Minimum
The published minimum thickness for a concrete path in New Zealand is 75 millimetres. We pour at 100. The extra 25 millimetres is a small part of the cost of a path and it is the difference between a slab that tolerates a wheelbarrow, a mower and a tree root and one that cracks the first time something heavy crosses it.
Fall Set at One in Forty Away From the House
A fall of about 1 in 40, which is 25 millimetres for every metre of width, takes water off a path. On a smooth, accurately finished surface 1 in 50 is acceptable. The direction matters as much as the number, and it always runs away from the building.
Broom Drawn Across the Fall
The broom gets drawn across the direction of the fall, not along it. Texture running the same way as the water gives it channels to follow and does nothing for grip underfoot. Across the fall, the texture interrupts the flow and gives a foot something to hold. It takes no extra time and almost nobody does it.
Joints at Four Metre Centres on a Path
A path is not a driveway and it does not take driveway joint spacing. On a 100 millimetre path, control joints go in at 4 metre centres, cut to a quarter of the slab depth within 24 hours. Spacing them like a driveway leaves panels long enough to crack in the middle.
Clearance Held Below the Cladding Line
Where a path runs beside the house, the finished level is set from the cladding down. Weatherboard, fibre cement and plaster want 150 millimetres between the bottom of the cladding and a paved surface. A path poured to the existing ground level instead is how a dry wall becomes a damp one.
We Deal With the Roots Before We Pour
On an established section the thing that lifted the old path will lift the new one. We look at what is growing nearby before quoting, deal with the root where that is possible, and where the tree stays we form around it or build over a root barrier. Pouring over a live root and saying nothing is the cheap option and it fails.